About Diamonds

Diamonds come in all shapes and sizes and there are a number of elements that greatly affect their quality and value. We hope the following guide helps to give you a better understanding of these elements and diamonds in general.

Please click on any of the following topics to read more

DIAMOND ANATOMY

The diagram and points below explain the terminology used when describing the various elements relating to diamonds.

Diameter  - is the width of the diamond as measured through the girdle.
Table  - is the large, flat top facet of a diamond.
Crown  - is the upper portion of a cut gemstone, above the girdle.
Girdle  - is the narrow rim of a diamond that separates the crown from the pavilion. It is the largest diameter to any part of the stone.
Pavilion  - is the lower portion of the diamond, below the girdle. It is sometimes referred to as the base.
Culet  - is the tiny facet on the pointed bottom of the pavilion, which is the portion of a cut gem below the girdle.
Depth  - is the height of a gemstone, from the culet to the table.

^ Back to Top

The 4 C’s – Cut > Colour > Clarity > Carat

DIAMOND CUT

(Not to be confused with Shape)

Diamonds are cut according to an exact mathematical formula. Each cut creates a small flat polished plane known as a facet. The most common shape diamond is the Round Brilliant, which is cut with 58 facets. These facets are designed to yield the maximize amount of light to be reflected back to the viewer.

This reflection is known as brilliance and is an extremely important factor in evaluating the quality of a diamond. Approximately 98% of the diamond’s brilliance is controlled by the cut.

Diamond brilliance is affected by:

The depth of the diamond compared to it’s diameter – If cut too deep, the light escapes out the sides causing the diamond to appear dark and dull
The diameter of the table compared to the diameter of the diamond – When cut too shallow, light is lost out the bottom causing to the diamond to lose brilliance.
The Polish Grade - After cutting, each diamond facet is polished to improve the appearance and light return, which ultimately affects the grade of the stone. The polish rating refers to the minute lines left on the diamond after the polishing process; these lines are straight in appearance. A polish grade of good or higher will normally mean that no polish lines are visible to the unaided eye. However, below this rating polish lines may be visible, significantly reducing the overall brilliance of the diamond.
Diamond Symmetry- Symmetry refers to the alignment of a diamond's facets, which can greatly influence its overall fire and brilliance. The light bounces around inside a diamond reflecting off the facets. If the facets are not properly aligned then the light will not be returned through the top of the diamond into the eye.

Diamond Pricing
98% of a diamond's brilliance is controlled by the quality of its Cut. When we refer to a diamond Cut we are in reality referring to the proportions, polish and symmetry of the facets of the diamond as set out above.

Understanding this is very important when comparing diamonds. Two stones that may appear to be equal in terms of their Color, Clarity and Carat weight can show significant price differences based on the Cut and therefore brilliance of the diamond.

^ Back to Top

DIAMOND COLOUR

The most popular Colour for Diamonds is "white" or colorless. Whilst Diamonds come in every Colour of the spectrum, for "white" Diamonds true colourless examples are extremely rare and therefore demand the highest value.

Regular "white" Diamonds are graded by Colour and are given letter designations dependant upon how far they deviate from the purest "white."

Put simply, just a small amount of Colour can diminish a diamond’s "brilliance & fire", which has a negative effect on the value of the stone.

Diamonds deemed to be truly colorless are awarded a D Colour grading.

Colour grading then continues down through the alphabet, with each letter designating a slightly yellower tint.

D - Absolutely Colourless. The highest colour grade, which is extremely rare.
E- Colorless. These are extremely rare and sought after. Only minute traces of colour can be detected by an expert gemologist using a loupe.
F - Colourless. A Significant quality stone. Slight color detected by an expert gemologist, but still considered a "colourless" grade.
G-H – Near Colourless. Colour is noticeable when compared to diamonds of better grades, but these grades offer excellent value.
I-J - These can be excellent value stones. I-J Colour Diamonds are almost colourless with only a slightly detectable yellow tint, often making them offer excellent value for money.
K-Z – Inferior stones.

Recommendation: The best way to determine the true Colour of a diamond is by looking at it against a white surface.

^ Back to Top

DIAMOND CLARITY

A diamond's clarity is determined by the amount of detectable external irregularities and internal imperfections created by nature when the diamond was formed.

Imperfections such as spots or lines are called inclusions. The inclusions can interfere with the passage of light through the stone, diminishing the sparkle and brilliance.

The clarity of a diamond is graded higher when there are fewer inclusions. The scale by which Clarity is graded ranges from flawless (IF) to included (I). To be graded flawless, a diamond must have no inclusions visible to a trained eye under a 10x magnification in good light.

FL, IF Diamonds:   These diamonds are the most rare and most expensive. These diamonds have been graded as (FL) Flawless: no internal or external flaws. (IF) Internally Flawless: No internal flaws.
VVS1, VVS2 Diamonds:  A superior quality diamond. Very, Very Slightly Included: Very difficult to see inclusions under 10x magnification.
VS1, VS2 Diamonds: A lesser quality than the VVS1 or VVS2 grades. Very Slightly Included: Inclusions are not typically visible to the unaided eye, but are viewable at 10x magnification.
SI1, SI2 and SI3 Diamonds: When combined with other factors, these grades represent good value. Slightly Included: Inclusions are visible under 10x magnification, and may be visible with the unaided eye.
I1, I2, I3 Diamonds:   These diamonds contain inclusions that are visible to the naked eye. I grade diamonds are often purchased by customers seeking the largest stone possible for their money and these individuals are therefore not concerned about inclusions.

^ Back to Top

DIAMOND CARAT WEIGHT

A Carat is the unit of measurement for a diamond's weight - it is equal to 200 milligrams, and there are 142 Carats to an ounce.

Carats are referenced by dividing them into points - there are 100 points in a Carat.

A half Carat diamond may be referred to as a 50-point stone (about 100 milligrams). Because large diamonds are rarer they generally have a greater value per Carat than smaller sized stones.

^ Back to Top

DIAMOND SHAPE

Diamond Shape refers to the general outward appearance of the Diamond. The industry standard shape is a Round Brilliant Diamond, which accounts for more than 75% of diamonds sold today. The Round refers to the shape and the Brilliant refers to the cut. Diamond Shape should not be confused with Diamond Cut.

There are however many other diamond shape variations available, each creating a distinctive look to suit the varied tastes of diamond buyers.

Round Brilliant Diamonds

Round diamonds are very popular and account for the majority of diamond sales. Round brilliant-cut diamonds are distinguished with their features of 58 facets and a 360-degree symmetrical shape. They are the most optically brilliant diamond.

Princess Diamonds

Princess diamonds are available for those wanting a square or rectangular stone offering a similar brilliance of a Round diamond. If you are seeking a square-shaped Princess diamond, choose a length-to-width ratio between 1 and 1.05. For a good quality rectangular shaped Princess diamond, choose a length-to-width ratio greater than 1.10.

Marquise Diamonds

The elongated stone will give an illusion of a greater size while accentuating long, slender fingers. Diamonds with a classic Marquise shape will usually have a length-to-width ratio between 1.75 and 2.25.

Emerald Diamonds

Emerald diamonds have long facets and layered corners that resemble stairs. An Emerald shape will highlight clarity better than any of the other shapes. For a classic Emerald shape, look for a length-to-width ratio between 1.30 and 1.50.

Asscher Diamonds

A variation of the classic Emerald shape. Asscher-shaped diamonds have deep trimmed corners and a thicker profile within a square frame. A classic Asscher-shape has a length-to-width ratio close to 1.00.

Radiant Diamonds

Blocked corners are a signature feature of Radiant shape diamonds. They can combine the glamour of a classical Emerald shaped stone with the brilliance and fire of a Round-cut diamond. If you prefer a square shaped Radiant diamond, choose a length-to-width ratio between 1 and 1.05. If you prefer a rectangular shape, look for a length-to-width ratio greater than 1.10.

Pear Diamonds

Pear diamonds are a very stylish mix between a Round and Marquise shaped stone and they have a resemblance to an elegant teardrop. This unique shape is what allows them to be cut to accommodate a profile that is fatter and longer. A classic Pear shaped diamond should have a length-to-width ratio between 1.45 and 1.75.

Oval Diamonds

Oval diamonds can offer the sparkle of round stone in a dazzling and elongated silhouette. These are the most ideal choice for those who seek a uniquely shaped diamond that accentuates long and slender fingers. Classical oval shape diamonds have a length-to-width ratio between 1.33 and 1.66.

Heart Diamond

Heart diamonds can truly offer a brilliance and symmetry in a shape that is a symbol of the eternity of romance. The lobes of a Heart stone should be rounded and clearly defined. Similar to a Pear-cut stone, the cut of a Heart diamond can be fatter and longer depending on your preference. A wider Heart shape will have a length-to-width ratio between 0.85 and 1.00. For a longer, tapered design, try a length-to-width ratio between 1.00 and 1.10.

Cushion Diamond

A Cushion shaped stone will have a square-rectangular cut with rounded corners and large facets that will enhance brilliance of the stone. If you are seeking a square-shaped Cushion diamond, you should look for length-to-width ratio between 1 and 1.05. For a more rectangular-shaped Cushion diamond, it is advisable to choose a length-to-width ratio between 1.10 and 1.20.

^ Back to Top

FLUORESCENCE

Fluorescence is a property of some diamonds that emit visible light when they are exposed to invisible ultraviolet radiation. Fluorescence is detected by gemologist using a long wave and short wave ultraviolet lamp. Fluorescence can manifest itself in daylight and with some artificial lighting, giving the diamond a bluish and/or milky appearance. Although fluorescence lowers the value of a diamond, it can make a diamond appear whiter and closer to a colorless appearance. Blue fluorescence coloring can actually sometimes even improve the color of a diamond by a grade or two while lowering its value. Fluorescence can occur in a variety of degrees and colors, from common blue to rare yellow. Fluorescence is graded from None to Very Strong. Medium or strong fluorescence will actually counteract the slight yellow body color of a diamond that is rated a color grade of I or lower. Because of this, these diamonds will appear to be more white or colorless than they actually are, thus giving a budget-conscious buyer the opportunity to purchase a lower-color but whiter-looking diamond that can offer an appearance that is comparable to a more expensive, higher color diamond.

^ Back to Top

DIAMOND SETTINGS

Settings play two important roles: to hold the stone in the ring and to enhance the stones presentation. There is a range of setting types and each type of setting enhances the stone in different ways.

Prong or Claw Setting

The prong setting, also called a claw setting, is the most desired gemstone setting and is often adopted for use in solitaire engagement rings. The diamond or gem is inserted into prongs that form a basket-like base. The ends of the prongs are bent over and shaped so that they rest against the stone. A prong setting can be tall, with the diamond crowned well above the ring's band, or it can be short, with the stone resting closer to the finger.

Channel Setting

Channel settings are most traditional choice for wedding bands. Smaller diamonds and even gemstones are delicately placed in channels cut in the metal ring shank. The stones are set in the ring shank alongside one another. Metal from the outer edge of the ring is then folded over the edges of the stones to secure them firmly into the ring. This creates a smooth feel and adds to the elegance of designer wedding bands.

Pave Setting
Pave set rings require the most precise selection of diamonds or gemstones. Small holes are drilled in the ring shank to hold tiny diamonds, which are placed in rows and fill up the entire space on the surface without actually touching each other. After the diamonds fill their respective small holes tiny bits of metal from the surface of the shank are pushed over the edge of the diamond, forming tiny prongs to hold the stone in place. Each tiny diamond is cut with 58 facets and its look and feel contributes towards the elegant look of a pave set ring design.

Bar Setting

A variation of the channel setting is the bar channel setting. The metal plates in the channel rise to the top level of the stone and can be seen between the stones. Depending upon the level of contrast between the stone and the metal surface bar channel settings look very attractive. It gives a slightly different visual effect than the normal channel setting.

Bezel Setting

In a bezel setting, the stone is held by a metal rim that encircles the sides of the stone and extends slightly above it. The rim, or collar, is stretched around a portion of the diamond or the entire circumference of it. A bezel setting holds the diamond securely, and the low, protective profile it creates makes a bezel set ring a good choice for people with active lifestyles. A bezel setting also protects the edges of the diamond from abrasion.

^ Back to Top

DIAMOND GLOSSARY

Baguette shape 
A rectangular-shaped diamond with rows of step-like facets. If the baguette's two long sides taper inward, it is called a Tapered baguette.

Bar setting 
Similar to the channel setting, it is a circular band of diamonds that holds each stone in by a long thin bar, shared between two stones.   

Barion cut 
This has a traditional step-cut crown and a modified brilliant-cut pavilion. A square barion cut diamond has 61 facets, excluding the culet.  

Bearding or girdle fringes 
The outermost portion of the diamond, called the girdle, can develop small cracks that resemble whiskers during the polishing process. The bearding can sometimes be removed, if not too dramatic, with slight re-polishing, and if the weight allows.  

Bezel setting  
With a bezel setting, a rim holds the stone and completely surrounds the gem. Bezels can have straight edges, scalloped edges, or can be molded into any shape to accommodate the stone.  

Blemishes 
The term blemish is used when the diamond has scratches or marks on the external area of the stone.

Brilliance 
Liveliness or sparkle in a stone when light is reflected from the surface and from the total internal reflection of light.   

Brilliant-cut 
Brilliant cuts are scientifically found to reflect the most light from within the stone, and often are considered to have the most brilliance of all cuts. A round brilliant-cut diamond has 58 facets. Other brilliant cuts include the heart, oval, marquise and pear shaped.   

Certification (or Diamond Grading Reports) 
There are many recognized gemological laboratories that can grade your diamond for a fee.

Channel setting 
A channel setting is where the stones are set right next to each other with no metal separating them. This setting is used most frequently for wedding and anniversary bands.   

Cluster setting 
This setting surrounds a larger center stone with several smaller stones. It is designed to create a beautiful larger ring from many smaller stones.   

Crown
This is the upper portion or the top of a diamond.   

Culet 
The bottom point of the diamond. It may be polished in some stones. Please note that sometimes the cutter may choose to make the culet a surface instead of a point.   

Cushion cut 
A mixed-cut diamond shaped like a square pillow.

Cutting style 
Cutting styles are different than diamond shapes. The simplest and most common way to explain cutting style is to categorize it into the following three basic types: Step-cut, Brilliant-cut and Mixed-cut.   

Deep cut 
Cut refers to the angles and proportions a skilled craftsman creates in transforming a rough diamond into a finished diamond. When a diamond is cut too deep, it will lose or leak light through the side or bottom. This results in less brilliance and value.

Diamond
A diamond is the hardest known natural substance. It is crystallized carbon. Diamonds are mined in their rough form and then cut and polished to reveal their brilliance.   

Diamond Grading Reports  
There are many recognized gemological laboratories that can grade your diamond for a fee.  

Dispersion  
When light enters a diamond it reflects off the facets and the angles cut into the stone. This distribution of light is known as dispersion, or the display of the spectral colors.

Emerald shape    
A rectangular or square-shaped cut-cornered diamond.   

Facets 
These are tiny surfaces polished onto a rough diamond that give a finished diamond its shape. The way light interacts with these facets affects a diamond's brilliance and sparkle.

Fancy shapes 
Any diamond shape other than round – e.g. marquise, square, emerald, oval, heart and pear.   

Feather 
A feather is a type of inclusion or flaw within a diamond. It is described often as a small crack, fissure or gletz.   

Finish
The word finish is used to describe the exterior of the diamond. If a diamond is well polished, it has a very good finish.

Fire
Often a term used instead of "dispersion," it is the variety and intensity of rainbow colors seen when light is reflected from a diamond.

Flat-top setting
Like the Gypsy setting, this setting has a band that is one continuous piece that gets thicker at the top. A flat-top setting grows broader at the top so that a faceted stone can be inserted into the ring at the broadest part. The stone is held in place by metal chips attached at the stone's girdle.   
Fluorescence  When exposed to ultraviolet light, a diamond may exhibit a more whitish, yellowish or bluish tint, which may imply that the diamond has a property called fluorescence. The untrained eye can rarely see the effects of fluorescence. Diamond grading reports often state whether a diamond has fluorescent properties. Fluorescence is not considered a grading factor, only a characteristic of that particular diamond.

Girdle
The girdle is the outermost edge of the diamond between the crown and the pavilion.

Growth or grain lines
These can be considered internal flaws, and can often be seen only by rotating the diamond very slowly. They can appear and disappear almost instantaneously. They appear as small lines or planes within the diamond.

Gypsy setting
The Gypsy setting is predominantly used for men's jewelry. The band is one continuous piece that gets thicker at the top. The top is dome shaped and the stone is inserted in the middle.

Illusion setting
This setting is more intricate than others in that it surrounds the stone to make it appear larger. The metal that surrounds the stone usually has an interesting design.

Inclusions
Often referred to as "nature's fingerprints," these are internal imperfections within most diamonds. They are what makes a diamond so unique, as a fingerprint does for a person. These birthmarks are measured on a scale of perfection known as clarity. Some common names of inclusions include cloud, crystal, pinpoint, and feather. The position of inclusions can affect the clarity of a diamond and therefore the value.

Marquise shape
A boat-shaped diamond that is long and thin with gently curved sides that come to a point on either end. Marquise is part of the brilliant-cut family.

Mixed-cut
This cut has both step-cut and brilliant-cut facets. Mixed cuts combine the beauty of the emerald cut with the sparkle of the brilliant cut.

Pavilion
Bottom portion of the stone, under the girdle, measuring to the culet.
Pinpoint A pinpoint is a small dot, which is an inclusion within a diamond. A gathering of pinpoints is called a "cluster" or "cloud." A cloud or cluster can appear as a hazy area in the diamond.

Polish
Indicates the care taken by the cutter in shaping and facetting the rough stone into a finished and polished diamond.

Poor cut
Cut refers to the angles and proportions a skilled craftsman creates in transforming a rough diamond into a finished diamond. A poorly cut diamond can be either cut too deep or too shallow. A deep or shallow cut diamond will lose or leak light through the side or bottom. This results in less brilliance and value.

Princess cut
A square or sometimes rectangular-shaped modified brilliant-cut diamond.

Prong or claw setting
It consists of four or six claws that cradle the diamond. Because this setting allows the maximum amount of light to enter a stone from all angles, it sometimes can make a diamond appear larger and more brilliant than its actual weight. This setting can also hold larger diamonds more securely.

Proportion
The proportions of a diamond are very important, so that the maximum amount of light be reflected off and out of a stone. Proportion is the relationship between the angles of the facets of the crown and pavillion.

Radiant cut
A rectangular or square shaped diamond with step-cut and scissor-cut on the crown and a brilliant-cut on the pavilion.   

Scintillation
When light reflects from a diamond, the sparkling flashes that come from the facets of the gem are known as scintillation.

Shallow cut
Cut refers to the angles and proportions a skilled craftsman creates in transforming a rough diamond into a finished diamond. When a diamond is cut too shallow, it will lose or leak light through the side or bottom. This results in less brilliance and value.

Shape
Shape refers to form or appearance of a diamond - i.e. whether the diamond is round, triangular, square, marquise, pear, oval or heart-shaped.

Step-cut
The step cut has rows of facets that resemble the steps of a staircase. The emerald cut and the baguette are examples of the step cut.

Symmetry
A diamond's symmetry is the arrangement of the facets and finished angles, created by the diamond cutter. Excellent symmetry of a well-cut and well-proportioned diamond can have a great effect on the diamond's brilliance and fire. Grading reports will often state the diamond's symmetry in terms Excellent, Very good, Good, Fair, or Poor.

Table facet
This is the largest facet of a diamond. It is located on the top of the diamond. The table facet is sometimes referred to as the "face."

Table spread
Term used to describe the width of the table facet, often expressed as a percentage of the total width of the stone.

Tension setting
A tension-set diamond is held in place by the pressure of the band's metal, which is designed to "squeeze" the stone.

Well cut
Well cut proportions ensure the maximum compromise between fire and brilliance. When light enters a properly cut diamond, it is reflected from facet to facet, and then back up through the top, exhibiting maximum brilliance, fire and sparkle.

^ Back to Top